HAKU PATASI - Newar Community Typical Female Costumes.

Haku Patasi

The word 'Haku Patasi' is composed of two Newar or Nepal Bhasa words: 'Haku' meaning 'Black' and 'Patasi' meaning 'Sari'. It is one of the traditional costumes of Nepali culture and the representative of Newars' ethical dressings. It is made of local household cotton grown in different places surrounding Kathmandu valley. Thus, Haku patasi is a black sari with red or green borders decorated on the sides, worn by Nepali and Newar women living in and around Kathmandu valley. The color of borders on Haku Patasi differs as per the regions within the valley; i.e red borders denote to Haku Patasi from Bhaktapur, while green borders are signs from Kathmandu.

Newa maicha (girl) on HAKUPATASI - 
a typical Newar costume.

Haku patasi (black sari) bears a very different and unique identity than regular saris and dhotis worn by Nepali females. Haku patasi is usually heavier, and always black in color, sari with red border lined on the sides. Haku Patasi is worn without wearing a petticoat (skirt worn inside the sari).

This sari is worn from the waist to the calves and does not cover ankles as generally other saris do. Newar ladies and Newar girls living in Kathmandu valley and its vicinity, wrap Haku Patasi around their waist and tie Patuka just like a belt.

Embroidered Patu

Patuka, usually called 'Jani' in Nepa Bhasa (Newar language), is a white long piece of cloth which is wrapped around the waist for holding the sari in the form of a belt. Usually, patuka is 12 hands (about 18 feet) long. Patuka, is now available in different designs embroidered to enhance the Haku patasi. 

A full-sleeved blouse tied at four different corners usually called 'Chaubandi cholo' in Nepali and 'Thana tagu kapoya naun or Putu naun' in Nepal bhasa (Newar language)  or ' a cloth made of handwoven threads' is worn as top above the Patasi. Over the cholo, 'a shawl made of Dhaka' or 'Haku Gacha'  is worn. People from Bhaktapur put on a white shawl and on the other hand, people from  Lalitpur wear green shawl; showing a variation in culture within the same culture.

Different types of jewelry are also worn along with Haku Patasi. Some of the jewelry is Loonswan - a gold plated ornament worn in the center of the head with designs all over with an image of Lord Ganesh in the middle.

Kalli,Bangale, Loonswan&Nyapu sikha, Tayo , Kilip and Makansi (Earing)

Newar women wear a gold necklace known as Tayo Ghau and a golden pendant with stones joined to the necklace with the Haku Patasi. Kilip is worn at the back of the head that holds together the hair.Teek Ma is another elaborate piece worn on the head. Teek Ma has many small strings attached to a point and is worn on the side.

Besides these, some of the common ornaments are Patachin shikha (simple gold necklace), Company shikha (a necklace made of coins), and Bhimpuma (a necklace made of coral). Along with all these ornaments, the earrings worn is u-shaped and is called Makansi. Gold rings in figure and bangles are worn in hands. And Kalli (usually made of silver) is also worn around the ankles

Importance of Haku Patasi in Newar Culture

The color of Haku Patasi itself represents a cultural and historical association with Newar traditions. The bottom red lines of the sari are the sources of power givings to the mighty Goddess Mahakali, as said in Newar folklore. Thus, Haku Patasi is not only a dress, but it also symbolizes the power of women in society. 

However, with modernization and western influence, the trend of wearing Haku patasi has reasonably degraded in daily life. But at the same time, its significance nowadays has increased its value among the community people. Haku Patasi has become the most important part of every Newar jatras, celebrations, and functions. Newar women are accustomed to wearing Haku patasi during specific festive such as Gai Jatra, Buranjya, etc. inclusive of the performance of some death ceremonies. Newar women, girls, and even female kids are dressed in Haku Patasi with the red handmade cotton shoes, called Chatti.

How to wear Haku Patasi?

Putting on Haku patasi is similar to wearing as other saris; except for that it is worn without a need of petticoats. Haku patasi is wrapped around the upper hip of the body, as done in wearing other saris.

Here are the steps of putting on Haku patasi:
1. Wrap Haku Patasi around the waist.

2. Make knots from the end of Patasi by folding the parts where the left and right sides of the sari meet.

3. Make as many plates (mujaa) as necessary as per the length of the Patasi, as similar in other saris. More plates are preferable because of the absence of petticoat.

4. Tuck folded plates inside the wrapped part of around the waist, right below the navel.

5. Wrap Jani (Patuka) around the waist to make sure that Patasi does not fall off.

6. The remaining parts of Patasi can be wrapped on top of Jani, or waved off the shoulder by creating a long tail.