Chitlang-Markhu-Sikhali Hike 2018 September 7-8

During my tourist guide the training I found my colleagues were so motivated and expert in their own field. Half of my pals were senior to me, only a few of us were of the same level and same educational background. Among my training pals, I have a good bonding with Ganesh and Hari Raj. We were having good bonding from the training trip. We used to have an instant hike plan during our training session. Our first hike was Champadevi which was desired by me and then we planned to visit while we were on our hike at Shivapuri national park. But unfortunately, Ganesh missed due to his own busy schedule but I met new pals Aashish Bhatta. Along with him, we hiked to Champadevi-Bhasamsur -Machegaun hike. Then after that, we planned to hike Jamacho Nagarjun but due to BIMSTEC we just postponed it. As per our planning in case we have to miss Jamacho, then we shall hike the next week to “Chitlang-Markhu-Sikhali  Hike”.

And here goes our two days one night Chitlang-Markhu-Sikhali  hike experiences:

Motive: To hike around Kathmandu valley.

Hike members: Aashish Bhatta, Ganesh Aacharya, Hari Raj Bajracharya

Hike diary

1^st Day 2018 Sept 7  Chandragiri-Chitlang-Markhu.

 I woke up with the nightmare that my pals left me due to being late. I was so worried and looked up the time it was just 4:50 am. I was sleepless so I decided to get ready for a hike. I moved to  bus-stop to catch the bus it took one hour to reach Kalanki but I was surprised that no one has arrived there so I called Hari. He was on the way after meeting up we waited for the rest of the pals were but they took time to reached Kalanki so I decided to move Hari's apartment to utilize the leisure. We got a call from Aashish that he was waiting for us. We moved to meet up him at the bus stop and after meeting him we discussed hike. While we were discussing Chandragiri we were recalling Prithivi Narayan Shah's strategy of how he succeeds to rule Kathmandu valley. I was informed that I am not going to enjoy Chandragiri because it was the place from where Prithivi Narayan Shah viewed Kathmandu valley and ruled Kathmandu with war and betraying companion home Bhaktapur. Aashish was feeling proud that Gorkhali ruled over Kathmandu valley and I was reminded that Prithvi Narayan Shah succeeds betraying his own companionship father Ranjit Malla, the last Malla king of Bhaktapur. He banished Ranjit Malla is an option and as per his own last wish offered by Prithvi Narayan Shah, he moved to Banaras from the Chandragiri (it is the place from where Ranjit Malla viewed Bhaktapur for last time singing a tragic song with tears in his eyes and moved to southern plain). So we concluded that Chandragiri was the key place for Shah and a bad omen for Malla. We discussed it for 45 minutes than Ganesh joined and we just caught a bus to move Chandragiri checkpoint. It took us 30 minutes to reach the checkpoint. We walked for a few meters and decided to have breakfast and some stuff. We spent 30 minutes for our breakfast then we began our hike at 8 am.

We were moving crossing Chandragiri cable car point and enjoying the movement of the cable cars. Hari raj was leading us. This was his 3^rd time to visit Chandragiri so he was well known about hike trail. We were continuously walking for 45 minutes and at Chautara we had rest to gain energy to climb uphill. I was sweating and getting minor pain in the left knee. Resting for a few minutes we decided to hike uphill and I was shocked that we were climbing such a narrow inclined uphill. I was getting exhausted and just waiting for a plain way to take rest. We were waking in the middle of the jungle with peace and that I felt that we were only in the hike but suddenly I heard a noise from other hikers’. I have relaxed somebody was there to interact to wash out walking uphill’s frustration. But they were at the end of the jungle, I was feeling like I should quit the hike because it was so exhausting trails. Climbing for hours we reached plain areas where I energized myself motivating I should walk and walk to reach the destination. We were getting a clear view of Thankot so we snapped the moments. Construction of the road was going, we viewed the Chitlang from the midpoint which was our next destination of the hike. We took a left for Chandragiri but the way was too slippery and inclined. At 10:30 am we reached Chandragiri and had a debate on the same topic which was occurred at Kalanki that took place between me and Ashish. We were not having a good view due to foggy weather and discussed what kind of view Prithivi got due to which he wished to be a king of Kathmandu valley. Everyone was snapping the pictures where Ganesh and Ashish were taking their pictures with dummy Nepalese women in Teej attires. They were requesting me to take with the dummy but I was refusing them because it was too funny and seem the same as women’s. We moved forward for Gonga-dya (rooster deity)and I saw the settlement lies below Bhasmasur hills so I was wishing for a clear view to view Bashmasur uphill where we hiked 2weeks before. We spent there for 30 minutes and before leaving we snapped a selfie for memory.

At 11am we departed to Chitlang hiking downhill. It lies at the southwest of Kathmandu at an elevation of 2410m and it is a place where oldest clan Gopalis are living here. The route was the main ancient route with historical importance and was the gateway to the southern part of Nepal before the opening Prithivi highway. Hari was describing that the way in which we were hiking was a historical trail, mean this trail was used by Prithvi Narayan Shah to reach Chandragiri and  it was the way to bring first vehicles from Amlekhgunj to Kathmandu. I found this trail was one of the funny parts where everyone was attacked by leeches and the way was so steep which made it difficult to balance our body to walk. Hikers were slipping except me which making me laughed viewing their effort to get rid out from and leech as well as balancing their body to not be slipped. I stirred salt over their shoes to get rid out of the leeches. We were walking with fun and teasing each other to increase the pace of walking. I was so thankful for nature because the weather was so cool and slight windy which I was expecting from the beginning of the hike. I was feeling so happy that I was walking in the historical trail with desirable weather. It took us 3 hours to reach Chitlang and this trail follows to Markhu village then to Indrasarovar largest manmade “Lake of Nepal”.

Chitlang nature and settlement

We were feeling so happy that we can still view the traditional houses and lifestyles which we have-not got a chance to view in our training field visit of Kathmandu valley. We were searching the perfect place to have our tiffin and suddenly we were stuck at stone spout looking spout I instantly name the spout “Gujrjudhara’. Hearing the spout name Hari raj was so surprised to know it. Before this, he had not noticed the spout and unknown about it. He asked how did I know the name. I replied that I knew it from Nagarik newspaper where it used to share new places description in every Saturday paper and it informed me that this is the place where Laxmi Prasad Devkota wrote his Yatri poem. 

Gurjudhara

He was double surprised to know another interesting fact and to clear his query I showed him a factual board where it was written the same facts what I told him before. He was so happy that he replied thanking me for sharing facts before this hike he was unknown about the facts. He told me this hike is complete knowledge gaining than before. Ganesh and Ashish joined us but they missed the description. We moved to the place where everyone used to snap their pictures in pears farm forest. I was so eagerly waiting for it and walking 30 minutes from Gurjudhara we reached the pears farm forest where I was wishing to be there. I was so surprised that it was pears farming forest before this I was thinking of natural coniferous forest. I was jumping with fun and snapping was continuous. I was lying down to enjoy the peace and purity of nature listening to the Newari song.

Pears forest farm, Chitlang

Hari was preparing tiffin where Ganesh Ashish was busy snapping the pictures. We spent 30 minutes on an organic farm listening to the Newari song “tuyu tuyu dhagu musu musu kagu”. I was listening to this song from the beginning of the hike but I was surprised that they were no getting irritated from the song instead of that they were interested in knowing what song was about. I was translating each and every word into Nepali. We were so lucky that the weather was favoring us due to which we were having unique pleasant moments. Ganesh was wishing to visit first goat cheese farming but we rest of was not wishing it so we decided to move further. We were walking at our own pace enjoying the view and weather. It was my first visit to Chitlang, I was feeling that I should visit it again because I was so fascinated with weather and landscapes. Walking for 30 minutes we reached a point where we can view the map to move Hetauda. But when I noticed we just walked only 16km from Thankot then I just felt pity that I thought we have walked more than 16km. Ganesh consoling me it might be a mistake because it may depend upon how it was measured. We moved left toward Markhu where we were going to spend our night. The way was so amazing that it seems like Jhinu of the ABC route. We were walking uphills and downhills. I was recalling my ABC trek because landscapes were similar to it. I was listening to music to get rid out of sprain because my left knew was not supporting me. It was making it difficult to climb and to get down. I joined Hari he told me that we are very close to the lake because we can view the lake. I felt relaxed that we are at our destination on time. I was wishing for boating as soon as possible. We reached there at 3:27pm and along with Hari we were searching for the room but we were not getting good responses from lodges’. I don’t found cheerfulness instead that they are acting as rudeness but we need room so we decided to stay in lodges facing their un-cheerfulness. I don’t found cleanliness in the lodge so I was not feeling good and I was consoling myself juts only one night then tomorrow we were leaving. We wished to move for waterfalls but we got the information that boating will stop at 5 pm so we decided to go for boating instead of waterfalls.

Indrasarovar view from the hill

Indrasarovar lake is zoned rockfill dam with inclined core type of dam, with 114m dam height, 406 crest width, embankment volume 4419348 m^3, and distance of 7km. It is the largest manmade lake of Nepal which was established in 2034 B.S and complete in 2039 BS. Its project cost was us $ 117.84milloin fund supported by World Bank and Kuwait bank. We moved to the ticket counter to boating to get tickets. As the same, we had to wait for staff and he was not cheerful. We carried our life jackets and moved for the lake we waited for our boat driver for 5 minutes, we are just feeling what the heck is going on. We met a teenage driver and moved for boating but it was just for 30 minutes which was insufficient for us we were wishing for extra 30 minutes.

I was interacting with the driver but he was not interested to interact so I stopped interacting and talked with my pals. I was feeling people over here were lacking cheerfulness and hospitality quality. We were having good moments while boating and after boating, we were just confused about what to do after that so as per planned we moved to the suspension bridge. We bought some drinks and moved to the next part of the lake. We spent there for 20 minutes and started discussing the place and behavior of people over here. Before leaving back to the hotel we kept maintaining silence for 5 minutes listening to songs and after completion of music, we moved to the hotel for getting fresh. It was 6 pm, we were in a dilemma whether to get in a room or to enjoy the moments as per voting we moved to the lakeside with other drinks. We spent there for one-hour drinking drinks and soaking our leg in the lake. We were feeling that we were having more enjoyment than a training trip. We were sharing each annoyed and happiest moments of the day. I was enjoying the wave of the lake along with the music. I found everyone was in nano hangover so we decided to move to a hotel because I felt that I was bitten by leeches along with that my pant was getting wet. We moved to the hotel but fun was still in high pitch because from another part of the lake we heard someone playing music which attracted Hari, Ganesh, and Aashish to get dance so they moved to the roof to dance. But I was not joining them because the pain was getting extreme in my left knee. So I was enjoying the moments uploading pics in the social network. At 8:15 pm we had our dinner I was missing the dinner of the training trip because we used to get open chicken curry but here we are getting only a small bowl of chicken curry. I was wishing for extra chicken curry stock and the staff was Newar so I interact within Newari but she replied with fun that your Newari languages tone might deteriorate her pure Newar languages and the rest of the guys got good jokes to laugh at me. After our dinner, we just got in the bed and had slept, and this how we ended our first day of the hike.

Indrasarovar 

2^nd Day 2018 Sept 8   Markh- Kulekhani dam-Sikhali .

As per the itinerary, we woke up at 5am and I felt that everyone had a good sleep. I was enjoying the social network where the rest of the pals were enjoying the morning view and snapping nature and getting ready too. After getting ready we moved to had tea oh! god, not again the owner was getting angry over the staff as well as they were not showing a good response to us. I requested Hari to move from there as soon as possible. The owner was in fussy to us that the key was missing I told them that I had put in the door but they were not confirmed so they were getting rude to us. We left the hotel at 7 am and after crossing uphills I was requesting Hari to snap my last pic with the lake. There I saw jeep was arriving so hurriedly I requested Hari to ask for a lift. Oh my god, they just accepted our request and gave us lift up to the Kulekhani dam. I was interacting with the members of the jeep they told me that they were staff of hydropower and they were going for the dam. I felt good to interact with them because they were cheerful and responses were continuous. Lift saved our two hours because if we didn’t get the bus we had to walk to the Kulekhani dam but we were lucky that we got the jeep.

We spent there for 45 minutes and I was recalling my trip to Rautahat in 2011 when I saw the dam from the below for the first time but this time I was at the top of the dam where I can see a way to Hetauda. We were at the end of the dam where water usually flows downwards through a penstock to generate electricity. We returned to the bus stop but we were getting in trouble what should to do to return Kathmandu because we were not capable to walk 40 km to reach Kathmandu. The bus should be at 9 am but it was not arriving so we decided to move and then get into the bus wherever it will arrive. We began to walk and we walked continuously for hours crossing 1 km. At 9:50am we reached Salle where we decided to wait for the bus. At exact 10 am we took the bus and moved to Kathmandu. It took us two hours to reach Pharping. I was interacting with local travelers and I found they were happy even having a problem and fewer facilities which made me think about the perception of people. I was interacting along listening songs to get rid out of anxiety on the bus. The two hours’ drive was so hard and anxious time for everybody, I was smiling looking exhausted faces of pals. I was in agony to get rid out of the bus after viewing the Kathmandu valley. At exact 12 pm we reached Pharping but it was still a few km to reach Sim bhanjyang and to move hydropower from where we had to hike reaching to Khokana. At 12:10 we got out of the bus. I was thanking God for safe travel and then we straight moved to Pharping hydropower. I was informing pals that could see dharahara from here to make joke and I was unknown that local just heard it and he was answering me brother where was it. I replied I was just joking and everyone got a good laugh. We were in hunger, Hari moved in search of a shop where we had our noodles but the same as before owners are not showing good behavior to us even noodles were not tasty. We asked them about the way to Khokana, as per their direction we hiked to Sikhali, Khokana.

Left to right Pharping-Champadevi hill -Kritipur -Khokana

Sikhali was our, most wished place to visit after our training session. I was informing everyone if we were on time we shall visit Sikhali and as per my planning, I was leading the way. We were moving downhill from Pharping pond to bank of Bagmati river. It was so perfect landscape with the wind was blowing well which motivated us to increase our pace. After reaching the road I was so anxious in search of the bridge to cross Bagmati. We walked for 30 minutes to be the bridge and after crossing the bridge I was unknown to reach Sikhali. We used to ask whoever passed to us. We were waking in hot sunny weather due to this everyone was in frustration. I was enjoying the agony of weather and viewing the road construction thinking natures are getting destroyed for the sake of development. Hills was excavating for the construction of road due to this project hectare of fertile land going to get washed out and as well Bungamati-Khokana village festivals tradition is in extinction. After crossing the place where the hills were excavated, we stuck at the moment where we should go now, we were getting frustrated for each other due to unknown about way. We were getting up down in search of way. We asked help from the bikers he told the way was below the bushes so I hurriedly got down but I wasn’t getting the way. One of the women hurriedly approached us and showed us the way. I was so thankful to her, due to her help we were going to move on the right track instead of the wrong track to Bungamati. The way was below the bushes due to which I was confronting with Ganesh. Actually, he was right about it he wasn’t confirmed about the way where it was.  According to the women he was on the right track but he was unable to find out the way. He told me during festivals local people used to move via farm areas. Listening to his word I got the pictures of a group of Newari women moving to the temple via farm area. I felt he was right because we were walking in the middle of the paddy farm. I was feeling so happy that I haven’t thought I would walk in the paddy farm, it was beyond imagination.

Khokana paddy farm

 Pals misplaced the way so they got to return back and again I led the way. I was walking with Hari informing I was very happy with the environment and suddenly I got stuck in a muddy way. I was laughing that it would be hard for everyone to cross the muddy way and compel to put off their shoes to cross the mud way. Our destination was getting very close to us. It took us 3 hours to reach Srikali from Pharping. If we had started our hike from Bansbari then we would have reached sooner than this but we were unknown about the Bansbasri. Everyone was happy to walk in an unknown way and we reached the rest point where we were unknown where to move, I was staring at the east where I saw Rudrayani School and reminding interaction with locals I stared at the north direction where I saw the pinnacles of Srikali temple. I was in over-excitement to reach temple so, along with Hari we moved downhills but again we were in option way whether to choose the long or short way, I interacted with a local teenage boy and his response was so motivating and he even told that this lies small Khokana and big Khokana. Listening to his words Hari and I was just speechless because we were not informed during our training visit. We just thanked him for his help and information and moved to the temple, as per his direction. We reached Sikhali at 3.08 pm but we were shocked to view the couple, group gathering, and enjoying their time. I was feeling so lucky that we reached our destination within time and when we reached to periphery of the temple there we found litter around the rest house. We were cursing those who did it and ignoring the bad part we begin to snap the pictures. I was acting like deer jumping here there with happiness because I had accomplished my wish to be at Sikhali.

GHK@Sikhali

It was my wish to be here from the day I knew about Sikhali. Ganesh described the nature of the temple but the confrontation between us rises up. He was right that the main idol used to be on the 2^nd floor of the temple but he was unknown that god idols are kept in particular god home called “dya chen” (home of deity). He was not satisfied with my answer so he sketched the gods home and I knew what he was talking about. I reminded him the place where it was then he was crystal clear about Sikhali temple and its home. I told him that during Dashain, here at Sikhali periphery mask of Sikhali are presented. I reminded him of the pictures and he got clear about jatra too.

At 3:30 pm we left Sikhali before leaving I requested Ganesh to take my last snap then we moved Magargaun for tiffin. On the way, I washed my leg in the pond and local man interfered with me why I was washing my leg in drinking water source, I replied I was unknown about that. Ganesh was in anger with the person due to his undesirable answer. I consoled him and told him to move forward. I was not happy to walk in a concrete way and showing anger to guys to get rest as soon as possible. We reached the bus stop at 4pm and moved to the shop for our tiffin but like before momo was not tasty but we received good hospitality. I request the shop staff to snap our last pictures.

We were thanking each other and informing them to get ready for another hiking. We then caught our bus at 4:30 pm. I was interacting with Ashish but he was not answering well so I stopped it and moved forward to get another bus at Ekantakuna for Bhaktapur. Everyone had to a farewell to each other and I took the bus for the Bhaktapur bus at 5pm. I found the bus was fully packed and I was expecting this going to be more packed. I was recalling, my all the moments of hike. People over Makawanpur were happy even having problem but here people are not even satisfied having all the facilities. I was analyzing hike –local people and others moments with deeply which remind 4 noble truths of Buddha. At 6 pm I reached and hurriedly moved to get ready for watching Nepal vs. Bangladesh match of SAFF championship.  I was uploading my hike pictures side by side watching the match.

            Luckily we won the game and moved to the semifinal and after completion of the game I moved to get sound sleep and this is how I ended up my hike. I found my pals were honest and helpful in nature. We used to plan and before executing it we used to ask permission from all of the members. This quality helped us to get united in obstacles and accomplished hike with memorable experiences.